Jenn + Remy on Ponte dell' Accademia When we originally planned the trip we decided to skip Italy. There is so much to see that we thought we would go on our next trip to Europe, when we have more time to dedicate to exploring the country. But then we researched how to get to Croatia and realized that train tickets from France to Croatia were quite expensive. We found a flight to Venice that was cheaper than the train and then we could take a train from Venice to Croatia. Thanks Ryanair! So we began our journey from Nimes to Marseille to Treviso to Venice, taking five different types of transportation: car, train, bus, plane, and boat.
When we were finally on the water taxi, late at night, on our way to the bed and breakfast, we quickly realized that we were happy that we decided to make the trip to Venice. The guide book said “The first-time visitors to Venice (Venezia) arrives with a heavy burden of expectations, most of which won’t be disappointed. It is an extraordinarily beautiful city and the major sights are all they are cracked up to be.” Just in the first few moments motoring through the channels, absorbing the architecture by the night-lights, we knew we wouldn’t be disappointed.
Venice by night, from the Ponte di Rialto
The boat ride lasted about 40 minutes and we got off at the last stop. We were armed with a map and written directions and between the two we managed to figure out where the bed and breakfast was located. We walked through the quiet alleys trying to find street signs or landmarks. The best was counting the number of bridges we crossed. It was a little frustrating because it was late at night, but also an awesome first exposure to Venice. The city has so much character!
We found the bed and breakfast and it was beautiful, but it was late and we had a long day of travel so we were eager to get to bed. Both of us woke up early the next morning - not sure if it was from excitement to get out and explore or because it was already hot and there was only one small fan in our room - we ate breakfast, chatted with another traveler, and headed out into the city with cameras, full water bladder, and no plan. We just wanted to wander the city and take it in. It is just as, if not more beautiful during the day as it is at night.
The character, atmosphere, and history of the city are intoxicating. The narrow alleys, cobblestone streets, no cars, canals, and many boats made it seem like a grand adventure, somewhere completely different than anything we had ever experienced before. We meandered through alleys, over bridges, and past many gondolas.
We made it to Piazza San Marco or more commonly known as San Marco Square. It is the main public square in Venice. At one end of the square is the west side of St. Mark’s Basilica lined with great arches and marble decoration. The first buildings in San Marco Square are thought to be built in 819 and change and development continued through the years including pavement in the 12th century. We walked around the square for a bit surrounded by many people, most likely tourists too.
We found the bed and breakfast and it was beautiful, but it was late and we had a long day of travel so we were eager to get to bed. Both of us woke up early the next morning - not sure if it was from excitement to get out and explore or because it was already hot and there was only one small fan in our room - we ate breakfast, chatted with another traveler, and headed out into the city with cameras, full water bladder, and no plan. We just wanted to wander the city and take it in. It is just as, if not more beautiful during the day as it is at night.
The character, atmosphere, and history of the city are intoxicating. The narrow alleys, cobblestone streets, no cars, canals, and many boats made it seem like a grand adventure, somewhere completely different than anything we had ever experienced before. We meandered through alleys, over bridges, and past many gondolas.
We made it to Piazza San Marco or more commonly known as San Marco Square. It is the main public square in Venice. At one end of the square is the west side of St. Mark’s Basilica lined with great arches and marble decoration. The first buildings in San Marco Square are thought to be built in 819 and change and development continued through the years including pavement in the 12th century. We walked around the square for a bit surrounded by many people, most likely tourists too.
San Marco Square
Remy taking a photo of one of the many canals!
St. Mark’s Basilica
We spent the day walking over bridges, exploring the winding alleys, gazing at churches, and absorbing the atmosphere. We took A LOT of pictures!
One church, San Pantalon really surprised us. It had a rather plain, brown, brick exterior – different than the others. We decided to go in and look and the interior blew us away. There are huge, amazing paintings everywhere. We weren’t allowed to take pictures, but I really wish we snuck one, although I’m sure it wouldn’t convey how gorgeous the paintings are. The earliest written record date the church to 1101, but tradition says it was built in the 9th century. It was originally dedicated to Saints Pantaleon and Giuliana. The highlight of the church is the very Baroque ceiling by Giovanni Antonio Fumiani, done between 1680 and 1704, depicting scenes from The Martyrdom and Glorification of St Pantaleon. Supposedly it's the largest oil painting in the world, measuring around 443 square feet and made of 40 canvases sewn together.
Picture of San Pantalon (source) and a picture of San Moise that we took.
Inside San Pantalon (source)
Eventually, we stopped for lunch. We grabbed a slice of pizza and found a spot to watch life go by. Although the pizza was nothing special it was still tasty. We never got tired of watching the boats pass by or the men rushing through the alleys with handcarts filled with deliveries. Since there are no cars, a boat will pull up on the closest canal and men will jump out with their handcarts and boxes and rush to the restaurants and stores to bring their deliveries.
By the early afternoon it was sweltering, but fortunately we made it to the air-conditioned train station to purchase our ongoing tickets to Croatia. After we bought our tickets we made it back into the city and walked the main street through Venice. We used up all our water and much of our enthusiasm for taking pictures. Luckily Venice has water fountains all over the city and we were able to refill our water bladder, which perked us up enough to continuing exploring.
And then it was happy hour time. Since we are on a budget we opted to get some beers at the grocery store and head back to the bed and breakfast to relax and recharge for an evening in Venice. On our only evening in Venice we wanted to find a good Italian meal. We walked up and down the canals trying to find just the right place and enjoying the setting sun. We found a great place with a table right next to the water. The meal was not remarkable, but definitely good pasta, fish, and of course wine. After we treated ourselves to some watermelon ice cream. It tasted like watermelon gum.
Around 11pm we began to look for a night scene to investigate, but amazingly it seemed that the crowds had thinned and that places were closing. Maybe we were in the wrong area, but it seemed that Venice is quiet by night. So we walked a little more and then headed back to get some sleep.
By the early afternoon it was sweltering, but fortunately we made it to the air-conditioned train station to purchase our ongoing tickets to Croatia. After we bought our tickets we made it back into the city and walked the main street through Venice. We used up all our water and much of our enthusiasm for taking pictures. Luckily Venice has water fountains all over the city and we were able to refill our water bladder, which perked us up enough to continuing exploring.
And then it was happy hour time. Since we are on a budget we opted to get some beers at the grocery store and head back to the bed and breakfast to relax and recharge for an evening in Venice. On our only evening in Venice we wanted to find a good Italian meal. We walked up and down the canals trying to find just the right place and enjoying the setting sun. We found a great place with a table right next to the water. The meal was not remarkable, but definitely good pasta, fish, and of course wine. After we treated ourselves to some watermelon ice cream. It tasted like watermelon gum.
Around 11pm we began to look for a night scene to investigate, but amazingly it seemed that the crowds had thinned and that places were closing. Maybe we were in the wrong area, but it seemed that Venice is quiet by night. So we walked a little more and then headed back to get some sleep.
The canal we walked along to find dinner.
The next morning we packed up and decided to take one more excursion. We wanted to go and explore Murano Island to see the brightly colored houses and the beautiful glass made there. First we had to find a post office to send off some post cards. We finally found it and Remy decided to sit outside with our bags while I went in. A few minutes later when I came out Remy was surrounded by three cops. As soon as I walked over they demanded our passports. They called in Remy’s passport number and then explained that it was just a random check. That was our first scare with the authorities.
After we gathered ourselves we got onto a water taxi and headed for Murano Island. When we stepped off the boat my first thought was about how hot it was and how unpleasant it was going to be walking around the island with our big packs on. But once we got going and I got used to the sweat pouring off me I was able to take in the beautiful houses. They are similar to those in the main part of Venice, but they are all different colors. There were also tons of little shops selling the glass made there. Murano has been a commercial port since the 7th century and by the 10th century was well known for their specialty of glass. Although Murano glassmakers operate all over, some say this type of glass is only authentic when made on the island.
After we gathered ourselves we got onto a water taxi and headed for Murano Island. When we stepped off the boat my first thought was about how hot it was and how unpleasant it was going to be walking around the island with our big packs on. But once we got going and I got used to the sweat pouring off me I was able to take in the beautiful houses. They are similar to those in the main part of Venice, but they are all different colors. There were also tons of little shops selling the glass made there. Murano has been a commercial port since the 7th century and by the 10th century was well known for their specialty of glass. Although Murano glassmakers operate all over, some say this type of glass is only authentic when made on the island.
After making our way around the island we hoped back on a boat for the train station. Sadly it was already time to leave for Croatia. Once we got to the train station I waited with the bags while Remy went to get lunch. It was great people watching time. I sat at the main entrance to the train station and it was awesome to see people’s first reaction when they walked out of the station and into the city. It was pure excitement and some people even yelled out. For example, the American who screamed “Yippee!” Also the first reaction of people was to take a photo. Anyway, I had a good time while Remy ran through the hot city looking for lunch. When he got back we made a run for our train that was scheduled to leave in a few minutes. We jumped on board and a few minutes later we were on our way for Trieste, Italy. There we had to switch to a bus for Rijeka, Croatia. We settled in and started reading our books.
About an hour later the conductor came by and asked for our tickets and that’s when we learned the bad news. We took the wrong train! There were 2 trains leaving at about the same time, a direct one and an indirect one. Of course, we got on the indirect one, which would take over an hour longer. There was nothing we could do so we just kept reading. When we arrived we bolted for the bus station only to learn that the last bus had left 5 minutes before we got there. We had booked a hostel in Rijeka and there was no canceling it so we tried to find a way to get there. We searched for other bus routes and trains, but there was nothing till the following morning. So we attempted to hitch hike and that didn’t work out. So we gave up and found a hotel, more pizza, beer, ice cream, and treated ourselves to an episode of Game of Thrones.
Lessons Learned:
1) It is not always a good idea to book a place to stay in advance.
2) Check with the conductor, driver, etc. that you are getting on the right train or bus.
Click here to see more photos from Venice
JG
About an hour later the conductor came by and asked for our tickets and that’s when we learned the bad news. We took the wrong train! There were 2 trains leaving at about the same time, a direct one and an indirect one. Of course, we got on the indirect one, which would take over an hour longer. There was nothing we could do so we just kept reading. When we arrived we bolted for the bus station only to learn that the last bus had left 5 minutes before we got there. We had booked a hostel in Rijeka and there was no canceling it so we tried to find a way to get there. We searched for other bus routes and trains, but there was nothing till the following morning. So we attempted to hitch hike and that didn’t work out. So we gave up and found a hotel, more pizza, beer, ice cream, and treated ourselves to an episode of Game of Thrones.
Lessons Learned:
1) It is not always a good idea to book a place to stay in advance.
2) Check with the conductor, driver, etc. that you are getting on the right train or bus.
Click here to see more photos from Venice
JG
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